La surprise uruguayenne

C’est la qu’arrive tout l’avantage d’un voyage de plusieurs mois…

A Rio de Janeiro, j’ai rencontre Sebastian, un uruguayen qui m’a donne envie d’aller visiter son pays, grand pour l’Europe, petit pour l’Amerique, et surtout peu peuple (un peu plus de 3millions d’habitants pour 176000km carre). Des lundi, j’ai donc pris un ferry qui relie Buenos Aires a Colonia. L’Uruguay est le voisin de l’Argentine, de l’autre cote du Rio de la Plata.

Colonia est une petite ville tres charmante, au bord de l’eau, ou tout peut se faire a pied ou en voiturette. Les porteños (habitants de Buenos Aires) viennent la pour le week end, loue une mini voiture ou un scooter, et se baladent comme ca.

J’ai ensuite rejoint Montevideo pour la soiree. Une ville qui m’a semble sale sous le mauvais temps, mais tranquille. En la revisitant trois jours plus tard sous le beau temps , elle m’a plus seduite. Un grand port borde la ville ancienne. Et un vieux marche, le marche du port, est rempli de restaurant où on mange accoude au bar, un morceau de viande sortie de l’asado.

Pour ma part, accoudee au bar, j’ai goute le chivito, un hamburger uruguayen avec un grand morceau de steak et plein de pickles. Tres bon!

Les uruguayens, plus encore que les argentins, s’abandonnent à la coutume du mate. Une personne sur deux se promene dans la rue avec son thermos et son recipient avec la bombilla. Jeunes, vieux, hommes, femmes…

Puis, apres Montevideo, est arrivee la vraie surprise: j’ai rejoint Cabo Polonio, un village de pecheur dont m’avait parle Sebastian. 4heures de route, au milieu de plaines uruguayennes où broutent tranquillement de belles vaches. Arrivee au bord d’une route, il faut monter dans un grand camion 4×4. Depart dans les dunes. Cabo Polonio est en fait une reserve naturelle dans les dunes, avec quelques habitants, au nombre d’habitation restreintes.

Je suis arrivee la bas a 8h du soir, le soleil tombant, traversant les dunes, pleines de fleurs, d’oiseaux, pour arriver sur la plage. Le camion roule sur la plage, et s’arrete pour moi a la pousada de Nancy (le bed and breakfast), ou j’avais reserve. 30 m de la plage, une maison en bois coloree, et Nancy qui arrive en courant pour m’accueillir. Que dire de plus que j’ai ete immediatement charmee?

Nancy me montre la chambre, petite et sympa chambre en bois dans les dunes avec vue sur la mer (20m). Je rencontre son mari, ses deux petits garcons, et les garcons qui les aident pour retaper et agrandir la maison, servir les hotes etc…

On me convie a l’aperitif familial, on peut aussi diner, Marco, l’epoux de Nancy, cuisine tres bien. On va faire ensemble une expedition pour eliminer une branche derriere la maison ou s’est installee une colonie de guepes. Prises par surprise dans la nuit, elles sont enterrees dans le sable. Bref, une ambiance familiale, sympa, dans un cadre idyllique, perdu au bout du monde avec le sable et l’ocean.

Le lendemain je vais me promener, et je vois des animaux jouant dans l’eau. Des otaries! Plein d’otaries! Cabo Polonio est la plus grande reserve d’otaries au monde. (Ce qui cause aussi du tort aux pecheurs, car les otaries mangent 80kg de poissons par jour, et dans ce village ou la peche est artisanale, il ne reste plus grand chose pour les pecheurs, d’autant qu’etant protegees, le nombre d’otaries n’arrete pas de croitre)

Il parait qu il y a aussi des baleines, mais ce n’est pas la saison.

Voila, je me promene, decide de rester un jour de plus, profite de l’eau un peu fraiche mais transparente, des plages immenses et vides, des grandes dunes où je pique-nique, de l’ambiance de la pousada.. Un vrai moment de bonheur.

Je suis finalement rentree a Montevideo et hier soir a Buenos Aires. Je vais partir ce soir pour Cordoba, afin de rejoindre doucement Ushuaia ou Rija me rejoint dans 3 semaines!

À propos de Perrine

Perrine, 29 ans. Départ le 25 septembre pour trois mois et demi au sud de l'Amérique...
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55 réponses à La surprise uruguayenne

  1. François dit :

    bonne continuation Perrine !

  2. Rija dit :

    il est extraordinaire ton voyage… et ce qui l’est encore plus c’est qu’il ne t’est probablement possible que de retranscrire le centième de la réalité!!!
    R.^^

  3. Maripia dit :

    Quelle magie dépeinte par tes mots. Merci de partager tes impressions, tes émotions.. On a l’impression de voyager avec toi. Gros bisous

  4. Catherine dit :

    C’est vrai… des mots simples prononcés par une fille simple et tellement riche…
    Bravo ! Continue de nous faire rêver et partager tes émotions.
    À plus. Bisous d’Yvrac (un temps de merde : pluie, vent, grêle parfois… que du bonheur!)

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