La Patagonie, où chaque jour se fait plus long

Apres Mendoza, les fêtes, le vin…. Entrée en Patagonie!! J’arrive à El Bolson, un petit village au sud de Bariloche, après plus de 20h de bus.

C’est un village cache entre les montagnes, plein de maisons en bois. Je rejoins une auberge de jeunesse, coincée dans les bois de sapin, prés des sommets enneigées. Un petit gout d’hiver qui arrive, et c’est pas désagréable. Tout le monde porte un blouson de ski et se cache au chaud.

Avec ma colocataire de chambre allemande, nous allons nous balader au marche du village, où les hippies des alentours vendent leurs produits. Dans toutes les villes, les argentins vous recommandent la feria des hippies, pleine de produits artisanaux, en cuir, des bijoux, des pulls en laine….  Mais celle du Bolson est particulièrement  reconnue, c’est un petit village où les habitants essaient de respecter un mode de vie un peu moins consumériste, ils fabriquent leur propre bière, recyclent les déchets, etc…

Nous allons ensuite nous balader au Lac Puelo, un parc naturel autour d’un grand lac de glacier qui rejoint le Chili.

Le lendemain, après une balade dans la montagne autour de l’auberge, et sous la neige, je pars pour entrer encore plus en Patagonie, vers Trevelin, un village gallois. En Patagonie, il y eu de nombreux immigrants gallois qui se sont installes, et certains villages ont gardé plus fortement l’empreinte du pays de Galles, et le revendiquent encore. J’arrive dans une jolie auberge de jeunesse entourée d’un jardin tout vert, dans ce petit village perdu au milieu des landes désertes.

Ca commence á ressembler un peu plus á l’idée que je m’étais faite de la Patagonie : Rien. Des landes désertes, recouvertes de mini buissons qui semblent piquants, des collines pelées, et tout ca sur des kilomètres, avec un village de temps en temps. Et puis du vent, du vent, du vent….. Et de temps en temps un squelette d’animal, un crane de cheval. Un animal qu’on imagine mort tout seul au bord de la route sans que personne ne s’en rende compte, puis dévoré par les condors…

Je me balade dans ce paysage, essayant de marcher contre le vent… je m’en sors bien fatiguee et le visage rougi par un soleil que je n’ai pas senti.

Le soleil, la lumière, commencent á changer… Le jour se couche à 21h á El Bolson, à 22h à Trevelin. Je rejoins El Chalten, après 24h de bus sur la Route 40, une route de cailloux non asphaltée. Le soleil se couche à 23h.

El Chalten est un village tout neuf, créé en 1985 par les Argentins pour montrer aux Chiliens que ce territoire leur appartenait. Il y règne en maitre un vent fort et froid, qui traverse les montagnes. Nous allons faire une jolie rando avec Thomas, un français rencontre dans le bus, et nous marchons contre le vent pour atteindre le Lago Torre, un lac au pied d’une montagne, dans lequel se jette un glacier. Le paysage change vraiment, dans la forêt de nombreux arbres sont détruits par le vent, et l’on entend les arbres grincer sous l’effet de ce dernier.

Enfin, dernière étape avant de rejoindre le sud sud, je rejoins El Calafate, la ville proche du Fameux glacier Perito Moreno. Un glacier de 60m de haut, de 35km de long et de 5km de large. Un des rares glaciers au monde qui continue son expansion. Comme les chutes d’Iguazu, c’est le genre de merveilles naturelles sur lesquelles il est difficile d’exprimer ce que l’on ressent. C’est immense, et on voit des bouts du glacier tomber dés qu’il y a un peu de soleil. Des bouts, c’est des morceaux de glaces pouvant aller jusqu’à 30m de haut, et faisant un bruit fracassant lorsqu’ils tombent dans l’eau. S’il n’y avait encore ce fameux vent et le froid environnant, je pense que j’aurais pu rester une journée à observer ce glacier…

 

Et voila, après ca, direction Rio Gallegos, puis la Terre de Feu, après avoir profite encore de la lumière à El Calafate. Dans ces endroits, quand le ciel est clair, qu’il est 19h et que le soleil est haut comme s’il était 16h en France, la lumière est blanche et crue. A 22h, elle se fait plus calme, mais toujours aussi blanche, á travers les vitres recouvertes de buée de l’hôtel, où il fait une chaleur rassurante.

Maintenant, je suis à Rio Grande, en Terre de Feu, et dans une heure je pars pour Ushuaia. Rija arrive ce soir !

À propos de Perrine

Perrine, 29 ans. Départ le 25 septembre pour trois mois et demi au sud de l'Amérique...
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